Goan Spiced Crab Cakes

tabla 1696

I recently interviewed Chef Floyd Cardoz of Tabla for Haute Living Magazine. In the interview, you’ll find out what he loves to do on his days off. It’s one of my favorite pastimes, too!

Goan Spiced Crab Cakes
by Floyd Cardoz
Makes 12 crab cakes, serving 6

From “One Spice, Two Spice” (William Morrow 2006)

For the Tomato Base
2 1/4 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 1/4 teaspoons coriander seeds
Scant 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
Scant 1/2 teaspoon cayenne
2 teaspoons canola oil
1 1/2 cups diced white onion
1 tablespoon minced peeled ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/2 cup diced tomato
Kosher Salt

For the Fish Mousse
3 ounces skinless white fish fillet, such as cod, bass, or Pollack
1 whole egg
1 egg white
2 teaspoons grated lime zest (from about 1 1/2 limes)
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons finely sliced chives

1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from about 1 1/2 limes)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound lump crabmeat, gently picked over for shell pieces
2 cups panko
3 tablespoons canola oil

Finely grind the cumin and coriander seeds in an electric coffee/spice grinder, then blend
with the turmeric and cayenne in a small bowl. Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over
moderately high heat until it shimmers. Add the onion, ginger, and garlic and sauté for 5
minutes, or until the onion is softened. Stir in the tomato, spice mixture, and salt to taste.
Cook the mixture over moderately low heat, stirring often, until it releases its liquid and
then thickens, about 30 minutes. Cool the base, uncovered. The base can be made a day
ahead and kept, covered, in the refrigerator.

Puree the fish, egg, and egg white in a food processor until smooth. Transfer the fish
puree to a bowl big enough to later hold the tomato base and crabmeat, then stir in the
lime zest, cilantro, and chives. (You should have about 1 cup fish mousse.)

Stir the tomato base and lime juice into the fish mousse and season generously with salt
and pepper. Fold in the crabmeat.

Spread the panko on a tray. Form 1 small test patty of the crab mixture and roll it in the
panko. Sauté it in a lightly oiled pan (about 1 minute on each side) and taste. Correct the
seasoning to suit your taste. Gently form the remaining crab mixture into 12 equal balls
and roll them in panko. Pat the balls into cakes (about 2 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch), taking care
not to squeeze them tightly.

Preheat the oven to 225° F.

Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the canola oil in a heavy 10- to 12-inch skillet over moderately
high heat until it shimmers. Add half the crab cakes and sauté for about 3 minutes, or
until golden on the bottom. Turn them over carefully and sauté for about 3 minutes
longer, or until golden on the bottom. Transfer to paper towels or brown paper to drain,
then place on a baking sheet with sides. Keep the crab cakes warm in the middle oven
while sautéing the remaining crab cakes the same way. Serve the crab cakes warm.

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